Rebuilding the Replica: Countach Build

The body is strange because it has the periscopo roof from the LP400 but it has the rear fender flares from the 400S and on.

I cant seem to find a year where they did both. I am sure a few of you might have seen this for sale a while back on EBay.

*I have since found a couple of special editions, and yes I mean only 2, where they had the periscopo roof and the fender flares.

** A little more digging and I have found a handful of LP400's that had the flares added to them.

The Countach built on a Porsche 914 pan that has rusted out (helps to not leave it sitting outside for years in the rain with the windows down)

UNKNOWN body - the bill of lading shows the car was completed and shipped from Germany back in 1986

from Brauns + Co agent for Mladen Mitrovic in West Germany.

Does anyone know anything about what this body might be based off that information?

There is no motor or transmission.

There is an interior (poorly constructed)

There is a dash with gauges (Speedo missing)

Dash, seats and the rest of interior is unusable.

I have the rear lights (complete)

I am missing the front turn signal light buckets.

I have the head light housings with motors already installed.

Missing the the side square marker lights.

Ordered the Mercedes W126 door latches with strikers for $30 each.

Ordered a dual arm bus windshield wipe assembly that looks close to what I see on the Countach in pictures.

Ordered the baby turbo mirrors because that is all I see even though there are a few posts saying no baby turbo. I have those other Ventil or whatever ones but I dont like the way they look with the split arms.

I am looking for the Countach OZ rim inserts if anyone knows where I can get some.

Not sure of what they are really called. So much back and fourth about the OZ/Campognolo Gotti Bravo S1, S2, S3, Telephone...WHICH IS IT!?

03-07-2013, 11:08 AM

I am working on the light buckets now. Since I can not seem to find any measurements and only one template that was of poor quality and incorrect size I am making from scratch and creating them from a bunch of pictures. I do have a real lens that is helping a ton with the measurements but I can not use it because BOTH of them are cracked in a few places very badly. (Figures) since they are originals or very good copies. Should have the bucket templates finished up this week from cardboard so I can move on to the metal fab.

Still trying to track down the front square signal light dimensions, might have to grab more photos and work on them from scratch as well. So far, a pair is $60 and that is the lens only, YIKES!

03-11-2013, 10:33 AM

Ok, so the W126 latches are NOT correct, thanks for that invalid cross reference part#. The W107 latches are supposed to be the ones that work. Good news is the strikers seem to be the same part for either the 126 or the 107 so I do not have to buy new strikers. I can still use the W126 for another project so no big loss there. Still working trial and error on the light buckets since I can not seem to acquire the correct dimensions anywhere. I am in the process of fixing the cracks and chips on the body as well.

03-14-2013, 09:49 AM

The W107 Mercedes latches are correct. They have the correct holes and are the right size.

03-15-2013, 08:48 AM

All the dimensions of the body seem mostly dead on but the interior is extra cramped. I am 5' 11" my head hits the roof BAD (taco neck), I cant imagine hitting a bump while driving, i'd end up like Dino on the Flintstones. On the passenger side my knees hit the dash. Does anyone have measurements from the floor to the roof and from the back of the car to the dash and seat-back to the dash? I am thinking since the pans need to be replaced I will have them lowered as much as possible as well. My left to right measurements are correct from what the Countach shows they should be. The car is VERY roomy side to side.

03-18-2013, 09:48 AM

I had the slave labor helping sand and primer this weekend, had barely got started and a big thunderstorm came out of no where.

Waiting on the garage to get finished is like waiting on Santa to bring the goodies!

03-22-2013, 10:02 AM

Does anyone have pictures of how the interior is done behind the driver and passenger in the mini window where the seat belt bolt goes through?

It looks like some kind of half triangle something another. I found lots of pictures from the outside of poor quality and interior shot always look at the dash POV.

I need something from the dash looking back. I am missing these panels in my interior. I am also missing whatever padding goes behind the seats, ever how that is cut.

Here are a couple pics.

Attached Images

03-24-2013, 01:09 AM

Did a little more sanding today with the weather holding out. I measured my dash instrument box.

Inside the aluminum bezel is 5" high by 20" wide. So I started working on my gauge face plates this evening.

I think I am going to go with the original Stewart Warner Stage 3 style gauges. Here is what I was able to come up with so far.

Here is what the gauge pod looked like for the Stewart gauges. The pod is a bit different compared to a 5000s or QV that have the 4" gauges.

Attached Images

03-24-2013, 08:29 PM

The Stewart Warner gauges are 3" for the SPEEDOMETER and RPM and 2" for all the others? From the looks of it, they seem to be 3" and 4" but when I pull the information for them the individual specs say 3 & 2?

I verified the gauges are 2.25" and 3.25" on the OD

and 2" and 3" on the ID.

03-26-2013, 05:25 AM

Turn signal bucket dimensions

Attached Images

04-05-2013, 09:30 AM

Yay! The wheels fit but they need to be refinished/painted.

With the engine out the trailing arms barely give enough clearance to the back wheels to spin, see how far forward they came.

04-11-2013, 08:38 AM

I am going to go with the EURO spec 34mm x 34mm side marker lights

09-05-2013, 09:04 AM

So it took all summer to build my garage. I have the car pulled inside out of the weather now. I have no power run yet but it is DRY!! Hopefully I can get back to the car soon! I am having withdrawals and its not pretty. Sneaking out at 2am to sit in the car watching youtube videos of Countach ride alongs. I have hit rock bottom.

10-15-2013, 11:55 AM

I've got my temporary power run (while im trenching for the real power lines) but I have been hit with the honey do list from hell lately. Then the washer died on me so while I was hunting for dryers the washer died on me and I was like seriously?? Which sucks because I just bought my engine for the car this weekend and was |-| this close to buying the rebuild kit and getting ready to tear the engine down and start the long process of the overhaul. So much for that, and no pics right now of the engine or car, sorry.

The car has been covered up and acquired a bunch of items on it like those old pool tables in peoples basements that get lost under all the misc items that seem to gravitate to it. LOL

I want to get back to sandblasting and welding on the frame that I need to finish as well. Hopefully more pics and updates are on the horizon!

12-24-2013, 09:50 AM

My new lenses showed up so I checked the fit on them.

Stuck the wing and trunk lid on for a sec to see the overall look.

Not much going on lately. Worked on the door hinges.

Maybe during the break I can get the ball rolling again. HAPPY HOLIDAYS peoples!

02-08-2014, 03:14 PM

Started working on my door hinges. Happy to get a little something done. They were rusted badly, now they open very smooth.

03-31-2014, 12:31 PM

Finished under the dash area.

Started on the brakes now. Dropped master cylinder, pulling all 4 wheels, rotors, capliers, brake lines, etc and putting a new system back on.

Found out they cheaped out on the 5-lug conversion and went with a 5 lug spacer block. I may change this later but for now I can get new

rotors really cheap since they are 4 lug.

The hubs are a PAIN! This thing hasn't been on the road since 1989 I am guessing, geeez! Hope to have the trailing arms out soon.

04-08-2014, 10:24 AM

One down, one to go....

After I refinish the arms I am thinking of going drilled & slotted rotors.

I was going to put stainless braided brake lines on but I keep hearing and reading about unseen failures with them and to stay with regular rubber.

04-22-2014, 11:58 AM

The rusty grimy mess

Washed in rust restore bath, wire brushed and sanded

Painted and ready for bushings and bearings!

Waiting on the bushing and bearings to arrive in the mail.

Next will be the rotors, calipers, and brake lines...

05-27-2014, 09:04 AM

The passenger and driver rear fenders had large holes cut out for the marker lights. I am going Euro style so I plugged them.

The water drains were pitted and had holes in a few places. I repaired them.

Finally got around to buying a shop press and was able to get my bushings and bearings pressed in.

Not a bad long weekend holiday I would say.

Now waiting to get my new drilled and slotted rotors so I can put the rear wheels back on.

07-08-2014, 10:44 AM

Got the arms put back on with the new slotted and drilled rotors. The hubs wobble a bit, was told that was because I do not have my CV axles installed and that it would pull up tight when I put them on. I was also told not to put the car back down on the rear wheels without the CV axles installed or I would ruin the new bearings I just installed.

09-26-2014, 04:35 PM

Ok, with the back complete I have started on the front. I plan on replacing the upper and lower ball joints, new bushings in the A-Arm, new slotted/drilled rotors and new calipers, brake lines, etc... Let the Chaos begin again..

09-29-2014, 01:23 PM

So the Front A-Arm removal has been the biggest nightmare of the project so far. Everything else came off without a fight but this A-Arm wants to battle me the entire way.

and dont get me started on this stupid, wait hold on... STOOOOPIIDDDDD lower balljoint nut that refuses to budge.

SUCCESS! CAR-0 ME-1 Muhahaha... {FLEX}

Now to get out the 3lb hammer, chisel, and dremel tool... that nut WILL come off!

Ahhhhyeahhhh.... NUT BE GONE! and i've started cleaning up the arm to a nice clean finish.

I still need to remove the torsion bar before I drop the A-Arm in my cleaning dip...

Started sanding and priming the inner wheel well. I am going to weld a couple panels in there too so its completely closed in.

10-03-2014, 07:08 PM

Torsion bar is finally out! A-arm and hardware has been sanded and rust dipped and is ready for paint.

10-17-2014, 01:16 PM

Got the other side off. The torsion bar adjuster bolt broke off half way out. I'll have to weld a nut on and see if I can back out whats left.

More sanding, polishing to get everything ready to put new bushings in and bolt it all back up.

10-17-2014, 01:22 PM

Parts are starting to look much better now.

11-02-2014, 08:24 AM

Rack is leaking, so figured I would address this since I had the front end off.

Rack is now cleaned, regreased and ready to be reinstalled.

12-31-2014, 03:05 PM

Was finally able to track down the seat belts. Most places I checked wanted between $100 and $200 for the lower receivers and $250 $350 for the upper spring loaded latches.

I scored the entire set for 100euro ($121) and 20euro shipping ($25).

01-02-2015, 09:06 AM

My next battle is the seats. I can't find a template to build them from. I found a pair for sale but they were $5k each... really people?? $10k for seats??

I need to nab the rear emblems at some point (Lamborghini and Countach) and the side emblems (disegno bertone)

My son accidentally broke my OEM turn signal lenses (the clear stamped plexi glass that covers the buckets) !#$@&%#@!

I have the side release dual level that pops the two rear lids but I cannot find pictures of the front bonnet release that fits under the dash.

If I could have 15mins with a real Countach... ~sigh~

They are never at any of the car shows I go to.

I am getting ready to start welding up my inner fenders and fixing the floor pans. Its been slow going lately with all the holidays and family events.

01-21-2015, 12:54 PM

supports tack welded in.

finished welding and used felt paper as a backstop template for fiber glass.

started fiberglassing felt inner fender templates.

01-29-2015, 08:44 AM

So I figure with the heating and cooling of the metal behind the fiberglass that the inner fender I made might pop a bit loose so I am going to drill through the fiberglass and metal and put these inner fender clips in from a Lincoln.

02-01-2015, 09:44 PM

got the driver side supports welded in.

Added inner fender backing

all ready to glass, on to-do list, ran out of time.

Started working on a fiberglass template for my turn signal buckets. Once I get it the way want it I will bend my metal to the dimensions I worked out.

02-01-2015, 09:50 PM

Tried to install the lower metal engine vents but they dont match each other nor do they fit correctly. Anyone have any information on these vents? OEM measurements, etc? If I am flying blind, guess I can try mocking some up from pictures. Least my airboxes fit perfectly On both sides once the warped vents are removed.

02-02-2015, 09:02 AM

My quarter "windows" are plexi glass and they curve to the form. I bet OEM curved glass would fit like a glove. My windshield is glass and is curved with a radio antenna. My door glass was curved but when I took possession it was broken laying inside the doors(sniff/cry).

Yea, if you could email me the dimensions of the grills, that would be great!

Are the grills connected to the quarter glass via that strip in between them with the screw at the top and bottom of the strip? Is that a bridge between them or is that part of the grill?

02-05-2015, 11:49 AM

I am interested to know the measurements of the side base plates the blades attach to and if they have an inward angle, size of blades, length of blades, if each blade if straight or has an individual angle, etc.

I marked the areas in RED that I am curious about (Lengths, Width, Angle, Arc, etc) if anyone knows, has diagrams, CAD, etc. Thanks!

I know getting other replica measurements is not the same as oem but with enough pictures (unless I can find someone with a real car to measure that for me) then I should be able to compare the differences between the two and come up with some close estimates anyway.

Looks like there are 4 blades and the lip that screws in the the quarter window support. That lip looks bent slightly. Then the two end pieces, one edge is angle cut the other edge is rounded. Both end pieces appear to be on a toe in / \ alignment with each other ever so much. I'll work it out.

02-18-2015, 11:07 AM

Finishing up my turn signal buckets, test fitting...

Looks ok, time to paint it.

03-05-2015, 09:03 AM

got my side marker lights in from Italy.

Sanded and rubber coated the new inner fender.

started fiberglassing the driver side.

03-09-2015, 09:45 AM

more light fitting and adjustment

Fiberglassing driver inner fender

Started fiberglass template for fan grills

03-13-2015, 10:16 AM

drivers side inner fender glassed, sanded and rubber coated.

template grills mock installed to test fit

another view of template.

Now I will try to duplicate in aluminum.

Hopefully this weekend i will get the front end put back on with new balljoints, rotors, calipers, lines, etc...

03-24-2015, 09:03 AM

Based on the suggestions, I've updated the vent fin angles and positions.

another view

03-27-2015, 01:57 PM

Headlight assemblies arrived so I installed the drivers in to the pod.

Tested the fit with mount.Clearance looks good.

Now to install the front bezel.

03-28-2015, 09:47 AM

These are supposed to be the ones used in Countach. I have no clue but mine installed prefect, no extra drilling or anything.

Headlight Bucket Assembly Dual Lamp Left (Fiat 131 Brava all) - OE NOS

Our Price: $98.99

Quantity:

Headlight Bucket Assembly Dual Lamp Left (Fiat 131 Brava all) - OE NOS click to enlarge

A Factory OE dual headlight assembly by Carello. Applicable to the left (NA Spec driver side) of all Fiat 131 and Brava models.

Includes backing plate, screws springs, inner rings, and chromed outer rings.

Does not include bulbs or wiring.

Condition: OE NOS

Original Equipment New Old Stock

New and Unused.

Item #: 4345442-OE

http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=193540 &i=259643513

Think they measured 5 3/4"

04-03-2015, 03:06 PM

Ive been bickering with ECS tuning. They sent me parts that dont work, sent more parts that didnt work, tried to send more parts, that yes are also going to work without a doubt. Ive waste weeks on this. Got a kit from Deutschpartsusa in 2 days (free shipping) and everything fits and the stuff is NOT China parts. So the front end should be back on soon so I can get to welding my pans in!

Also, been working on a headlight bezel for the light housing. I couldnt find any for sale so I guess I will fab these too.

04-20-2015, 08:44 AM

working on signal and wiper assembly.

having to fab custom mounts but its all fitting together nicely.

Cut the old mounts and welded in new low profile ones.

05-03-2015, 05:10 PM

More work on driver bezel completed.

Started on passenger side now.

06-25-2015, 09:19 AM

I started work on the passenger side and noticed a big FUBAR that for some reason I have been over looking this entire time. So I have been sourcing a new front end at the same time trying to figure out if I can fix it on the car or cut it off and fix it.

The passenger side appears to have been wrecked and patched but when they did it, somehow they managed to create a large upturn/dip. While working with my other fiberglass, I noticed that you could (to a point) heat fiberglass and slightly distort it. It takes FOREVER to bring it up to temp. My experience was doing it slowly over a period of time will give you something pliable. So I heated the fiberglass with a heatgun and then clamped a steel rod in place along with a couple of steel plates. Then I used a blowtorch to heat the steel plates and the rod. I used clamped wood blocks as well. Over a period of 3 weeks, I heated and rapid cooled (using cans of air turned upside down, ever done that?) the fiberglass. After all that it looks like I might be able to save the front end on the car. Maybe at a later date I will replace it with a real one or a new replica part. Now with that out of the way I am back to work with the passenger side bezel and also I am now in the process of starting to weld my new pans in FINALLY!!!

Front end when I noticed the big gap

Front end clamped and heated

Front end dip fixed

07-21-2015, 12:07 PM

Finally got started back on the passenger bezel. Had a batch of fiberglass go bad. It refused to cure and stayed like tacky honey. Had to try and recover my mold because it wouldnt break free correctly. Finally got them apart and was able to save the result with the new fiberglass.

I've got my bead roller and my steel sheet. Waiting to get my metal brake in a couple weeks and then I will be ready to finish the floor pans.

08-29-2015, 08:58 AM

Finally got my metal brake and bead roller setup. Now I can continue on replacing my floor pans.

09-10-2015, 11:32 PM

Created a cardboard template and transferred to 17ga steel

Used bead roller and started folding ends with brake

Started welding pan in to place.

Pan installed. Still have work to do but covered in the meantime so it wont rust up on me.

10-09-2015, 01:01 PM

Finished the driver side pans. Installed the emergency brake assembly. Will be starting on the passenger pans soon. In the meantime ive been collecting my panel switches and lights. I am working out the dimensions for these. If anyone has the correct oem dimensions, pm me please

Thanks to Paul for his mad cad skillz LOL.

Hopefully I can get the correct oem measurements for these two panels instead of trying to reverse measure it from all the oem switches and vents and lights I have collected.

Trying to do it from pictures is a complete nightmare because of the angle of the photo, the angle distance either increases or decreases but at difference percentages.

The LP400 series being such a rare beast is a double edge sword.

10-20-2015, 10:04 AM

Finished my emblem collection.

11-09-2015, 09:52 AM

Starting passenger side, making cardboard template.

cutting metal to match cardboard

Folded and Welded in

Before

After

Wish I had a lift.

I jacked it up as high as I could get it and using a creeper went from one end to the other using sander, paint/rust remover, etc.. then went back and rust restore primed it.

My next step is to finish the metal work on the underside of the pans and then use a type of truck bed liner on the underside. I wont worry about all that until maybe the spring.

My winter project is upgrading the front brakes and master cylinder and starting to install all the interior parts.

More to come....

11-18-2015, 09:50 AM

Starting the interior layout and design.

11-20-2015, 04:24 PM

Working on this padded window shelf that sits behind the seats. Seems from researching, the lp400(s) shelf is way more thicker then the 5000s/QV versions that followed. Does anyone happen to know the dimensions by chance?

Attached Images

02-23-2016, 09:35 AM

So i've been hanging around the junkyard doing research on how interior panels are installed in different makes/models.

I have found a source for the small items I need and created a mockup of how my panels will snap in.

That way if I ever need to recover them all I have to do is pop them out. I have tested them with vibration for an hour

to see if they will work free and seems to work great but nothing is like the real road test.

I am now transferring the mockup to my passenger panels now and hope to start in the driver soon.

Once I get everything install raw I will take some pictures and then it will be time to start covering all the panels, yay!

04-06-2016, 08:42 PM

Interior is coming along....

05-02-2016, 06:41 AM

Checking center console fit.

Starting dash.

Working on dash pod.

Starting seatbelt support.

Welded seatbelt supports.

Started making the gauge panel template

Test fitting the gauges

Here is what is looks like installed

Over the course of creating the dash pod I did notice the measurements seem to differ a bit from

the later LP400S S2 S3,5000S, and so on.

Looks like once they switched over to the Jaeger gauges the pod went from long and skinny to

shorter and fatter. [ooOooOoo] to {oo0o0oo}

Using the known pod measurements refused to line up for me so I picture scaled the Jaeger

to the known Jaeger and they matched so I picture scaled the SW3 and went from there.

My door mounts are not OEM so that will have to be addressed.

Here is an OEM

and here is what mine looks like

I dont like the way the strut mounts were installed. They are not done like the oem style so I am

going to remove them and install new mounts that look like the oem ones.

Welding in the mounting bracket

Glassing in the plate

Thats looking more OEM now.

With the dash primed and the vents installed.

Now its time to see what I can do about the controls.

Here is an OEM picture

Lets see if I can make something similar.

Not too bad....

Taking a break from the bodywork and focusing on the engine now.

The EG33 Boxer 6 is about to be stripped down and rebuilt.

-Complete reseal

-Timing belt with rollers and cogs

-Water pump

-Upgraded 180amp alternator

-Cooler thermostat

-Brisk LGS-T spark plugs http://www.jegs.com/i/Brisk-USA/084/DOR15LGS-T/10002/-1

-Set of "flow matched" fuel injectors

This is a Subaru EG33 Boxer H6 engine for reference, hopefully mine will look as nice when rebuilt.

Im going for a high pitched exhaust like this EG33:

To try and match the sound of this Countach:

Long tube headers

I've been reading different articles about the H6 which is why I picked it.

-"The consecutive firing order (1,2,3,4,5,6) of the old Subaru EG33 H6 engine found in the old SVX from the mid 90's made a truly exotic sound."

-"(1,2,3,4,5,6) The result is a very smooth sound that harmonizes at nearly all revs giving a really awesome 'scream' at high RPMs. I'd love to see/hear someone put one of those SVX engines in an exotic replica."

*HOWEVER, all the technical documents reference a firing order of 1-6-3-2-5-4

Supposedly Flowmaster Series 80 makes this sound:

Engine rebuild in progress:

Christmas came early too!

Made these lift stands so I can finish the underside of the car:

The old jack plate was rusted out so I made a new one:

Here is the new plate

and the plate installed.

Welded the foglight supports in.

I liked the amber fog lights after I saw this Countach.

Started work putting the front air-dam vents in.

I am glassing nuts in so I have something to screw into

instead of just naked fiberglass holes.

My overall paint scheme will hopefully be something along these lines.

I got the turn signals, driving/fog lights, and lower grills installed

to check fittings for everything together.

I still haven't replaced my turn signal lenses (after my son broke them ACK!)

So I will be scouting for replacements now.

I got the screens and brake vent ducts installed this weekend.

Then I started working on the rear lights.

The reflector gels needed studs so they could be mounted.

I bought stainless steel screws and cut the heads off.

Then I epoxy glued them in to the plates.

Now its time to work on the signal housings which are

so nasty, dirty, and rusted up.

Nice and clean and ready to put back together again!

While cleaning I noticed I have TWO DIFFERENT types of reflector backings.

So I will need to acquire a matching set of OEM at some point but for now,

mounting and light testing will work with what I have.

The wires were so old and corroded that they did not make connection anymore.

So I had to rewire and solder the connectors and wires.

I switched the old style lamps out for LEDs since I was redoing the internals anyway.

Bench testing the lights, everything now works correctly and I can start fit installation.

From what I can tell the screens are just glassed in.

So I am doing the same thing.

If anyone knows for sure the OEM is done a different way i'd be interested in the process.

Since my OEM lenses were broken by those who shall remain nameless,

I will use Lexan temporaries until I can replace them.

I am still working on adding the black border and the grooves lines.